Our first retro-recipes Glossary is taken from The Modern Cook-A Practical Guide to the Culinary Arts (1877) by Charles Elme Francatelli. Many of our readers will recognize the last name of "the Queen's cook" from the PBS Masterpiece Series, "Downton Abbey." In the book, compiled after his death, Mr. Francatelli is variously described as the LATE MAITRE D'HOTEL & CHIEF COOK TO HER MAJESTY (Queen Victoria) and PUPIL OF THE CELEBRATED CAREME.
While Mr. Francatelli is by no means the only chef of old to include a Glossary in his/her cookery books, undoubtedly he is the most recognizable to most of our readers, thus his Glossary appears first in order.
GLOSSARY Of "The Queen's Cook"
While Mr. Francatelli is by no means the only chef of old to include a Glossary in his/her cookery books, undoubtedly he is the most recognizable to most of our readers, thus his Glossary appears first in order.
GLOSSARY Of "The Queen's Cook"
Allemande.
Reduced, or concentrated white veloute Sauce, thickened with cream
and yolks of eggs, and seasoned with nutmeg and lemon-juice.
Angelica
is a plant, the tender tubular branches of which, after being
preserved in syrup, are used for the purpose of decorating entremets,
& c.
Baba,
a kind of very light plum-cake.
Bechamel
is veloute
Sauce boiled down with cream in equal parts. This Sauce takes its
name from a celebrated cook.
Bisque.
A Soup generally made with shell-fish.
Blanch.
To parboil: to scald, vegetables, & c., in order to remove their
hulls or skins, such as almonds, &c.
Boudin.
A delicate kind of entree, prepared with quenelle
force-meat or mince.
Bouquet
(garnished), or faggot, consists of a handful of parsley, six green
onions, a small bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, neatly tied together
with twine.
Braize,
mirepoix, marinade, poele, blanc, are various kinds of compounds used
for imparting flavour to braized meats; and also for keeping
Calves’Heads, Poultry, &c., white, while they are being
braized.
Braizing
signifies a slow process of simmering, or stewing over a smothered
charcoal-fire.
Brioche.
A species of light spongy cake, resembling Bath-buns.
Caramel.
Burnt sugar, occasionally used as a make-shift for colouring.
Charlotte
consists generally of very thin slices of bread, steeped in clarified
butter, and placed in symmetrical order in a plain mould garnished
with fruit or preserve.
Chartreuse
of Vegetables.
A mixed preparation, consisting of vegetables symmetrically and
tastefully arranged in a plain mould, the interior of which is
garnished with either game, quails, pigeons, larks, fillets,
scollops, tendons, &c.
Chartreuse
a la Parisienne, See. An ornamental entre'e or side-dish,
composed chiefly of quenelle force-meat; the interior being garnished
with ragouts, scollops, &c.
Compote
generally means confectioned fruits, preserved in syrup, or apple and
any other kind of fruit jelly; this word is also used to designate
certain savoury dishes, prepared with pigeons, quails, or larks,
mixed with peas, or mushrooms, &c.
Consomme.
Clear strong broth, much used in the preparation of Soups, Sauces,
&c.
Contise.
When small scollops of truffies, red tongue, See., are inlaid, as
ornaments by incision, in fillets of any kind, they are said to be
contises.
Croquettes
and Rissoles.
A preparation of mince, with a bread-crumbed coating. These words
both signify something crisp.
Croquantes.
A bright mixture of fruit and boiled sugar, Croustades, Pates-chauds,
Tourtes, Timbales, Casseroles of Rice. Various ornamental pie-cases,
made either of paste or prepared rice.
Croutons.
Sippets of bread of various sizes and shapes, fried in clarified
butter, and used to garnish salmis, fricassees, dressed vegetables,
&c.; they are alsa served with certain Soups, chiefly with
purees.
Cold
Entrees. These
consist of fricassees, salmis, cutlets, ham, tongue, fillets of game,
poultry, and fish, aspics, salads of poultry, fish, or shell-fish;
Boars’-heads, potted meats, & c. They are appropriate for ball
suppers, public breakfasts, and upon all occasions where a cold
collation is served.
Entrees.
A conventional term for Side-Dishes, comprising cutlets, fricassees,
fricandeaux, fillets, scollops, salmis, boudins, sweetbreads,
pate's-chauds, chartreuses, &c.
Entremets,
or second-course side-dishes, consist of four distinct sorts, namely,
cold entrees; dressed vegetables; scolloped shell-fish and dressed
eggs; and lastly, of the infinitely varied class of sweets,
consisting of puddings, gateaux, timbales, sweet croquettes,
charlottes, croquantes, pastries, jellies, creams, fritters &c.
Espagnole
and Veloute. The
two main Sauces from which all others are made; the first is brown
and the other white.
Fanchonettes
and Florentines.
Varieties of small pastry meringued over.
Farce.
Is a coarse kind of forcemeat used for raised pies and gratins.
Flans,
Darioles, and
Mirlitons.
Varieties of French cheese-cakes.
Fricandeau
and Grenadins
consist of the primest parts of veal, or fillets of poultry, &c.,
smoothly trimmed, larded, and brightly glazed with a concentratio 1
of their own liquor; they are served as side-dishes.
Fricassee
consists of chickens cut iu pieces, and prepared in a white sauce,
with truffles, mushrooms, cocks’-combs, &c., as accessories.
Gauffres.
A light spungy sort of biscuit.
Glace.
Anything iced. This word is also sometimes used figuratively, by
French cooks, to signify a smooth glossy surface.
Gratins.
A term applied to consolidated soups and sauces; also to certain
dishes of high character, consisting of game, poultry, fish,
vegetables, or macaroni, &c., improved by great care and finish,
through the use of concentrated sauces or gravies.
Hors-d’ceuvres
(Hot). A species
of very light entree s, such as patties of all kinds, rissoles,
croquettes, scolloped fish, shell-fish, macaroni, poultry, game,
sweetbreads, brains, ox-piths, horlys of fish, poultry, or game, &c.
Hors-d’ceuvres
(Cold). These should be eaten immediately after the soup
and fish; they are considered as appetisers, or whets to the
appetite, and consist of sardines, anchovies, tunny, Dutch herrings,
savoury butters, oysters, oiled salads.
Jardiniere.
A mixed preparation of vegetables, stewed down in their own sauce.
Luting.
A paste made of flower and water, and used for fastening the lids on
to fire-pans when preserving game, &c., in order to prevent
evaporation.
Macedoine
of vegetables is
a jardiniere, with the addition of some kind of white sauce.
Macedoine
of fruit.
A kind of jelly.
Madeleine.
Resembling queen-cake.
Matelotte,
a dish of mixed fresh-water fish, sometimes of one kind onlv as Eels.
* ’ ‘ Meringues. A kind of light trifle.
Migntonnette
Pepper. A preparation from either white or black
pepper-corns which, after being broken, chopped, or ground coarse, so
as to resemb.c mM nionnette seed, should be sifted in order to remove
the dust. “ Nougat. A mixture of almonds and sugar.
Nouilles.
A kind of vermicelli.
Pa;;er,
to bread crumb Panure. Cutlets, scollops, croquettes, or
any other entree that is bread-crumbed.
Piping.
A kind of decoration made of icing, used for ornamenting cakes,
pastrystands, small pastry, &c.: it is thus effected: — Take a
short funnel or conicallyshaped instrument of tin, and insert the
same within a larger-sized and similarlyshaped paper funnel or
cornet, the pointed end of which must be cut off so as to allow the
tin instrument to protrude: place the icing or glazing (a mixture of
finely-pounded sugar and white of egg worked into a smooth and firm
paste) in the cornet or forcer, the upper part of which must be
completely closed; the glazing is then forced out at the point by
pressure of the thumb on the upper part of the cornet.
Pi.uche,
or plushe, the
leaves of parsley, chervil, tarragon, lettuce, or sorrel, snipped or
cut small; these are used mixed or separately, according to
directions.
Profitrolles.
A light kind of pastry, creamed inside.
Puree.
A kind of pulpy maceration of roasted meats, and of vegetables, or
fruits, finished by being passed through a tammy or sieve.
Quenelle.
A delicate sort of forcemeat, used in the preparation of entrees, &c.
Ragout.
A rich compound, consisting of quenelles, mushrooms, truffles, fat
livers, &c., mixed
in a rich sauce, and used for garnishing highly-finished removes and
entrees.
Releves or
Removes. The top
and bottom dishes (as they are designated in England), served to
replace the soup and fish on ordinary tables. These usually consist
of roast joints, turkeys, capons, highly or plain dressed fillets, or
rolls.
& c., of
beef, calves’-heads, &c.
Roux.
A mixture of fresh butter and flour, which, after being baked, is
used for thickening sauces.
Salmis.
A highly-finished hash, made with game or wild-fowl, cut up and
prepared in either a rich gravy or sauce.
Saute.
Cutlets, scollops of game, poultry, or fish, &c., lightly fried
in butter.
Souffles.
The word souffle means strictly something puffed up, and is generally
applied to a light kind of pudding, served as a remove to
second-course roasts; it is made with any kind of farinaceous
substance, and may be flavoured either with fruits, liqueurs, or
essences.
Trifle.
A second-course dish, composed of sponge-cake, macaroons, fruit-jams,
custard, whipped cream, brandy, and other liqueurs.
Turbans
and Mazarines.
Ornamental entre'es, made of forcemeats, and fillets of either game,
poultry, or fish.
Vol-ac-vent.
A figurative expression applied to puff-paste of the lightest kiud.

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