Glossaries

Our first retro-recipes Glossary is taken from The Modern Cook-A Practical Guide to the Culinary Arts (1877) by Charles Elme Francatelli. Many of our readers will recognize the last name of "the Queen's cook" from the PBS Masterpiece Series, "Downton Abbey." In the book, compiled after his death, Mr. Francatelli is variously described as the LATE MAITRE D'HOTEL & CHIEF COOK TO HER MAJESTY (Queen Victoria) and PUPIL OF THE CELEBRATED CAREME.
While Mr. Francatelli is by no means the only chef of old to include a Glossary in his/her cookery books, undoubtedly he is the most recognizable to most of our readers, thus his Glossary appears first in order.
GLOSSARY Of "The Queen's Cook"
Allemande. Reduced, or concentrated white veloute Sauce, thickened with cream and yolks of eggs, and seasoned with nutmeg and lemon-juice.
Angelica is a plant, the tender tubular branches of which, after being preserved in syrup, are used for the purpose of decorating entremets, & c.
Baba, a kind of very light plum-cake.
Bechamel is veloute Sauce boiled down with cream in equal parts. This Sauce takes its name from a celebrated cook.
Bisque. A Soup generally made with shell-fish.
Blanch. To parboil: to scald, vegetables, & c., in order to remove their hulls or skins, such as almonds, &c.
Boudin. A delicate kind of entree, prepared with quenelle force-meat or mince.
Bouquet (garnished), or faggot, consists of a handful of parsley, six green onions, a small bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, neatly tied together with twine.
Braize, mirepoix, marinade, poele, blanc, are various kinds of compounds used for imparting flavour to braized meats; and also for keeping Calves’Heads, Poultry, &c., white, while they are being braized.
Braizing signifies a slow process of simmering, or stewing over a smothered charcoal-fire.
Brioche. A species of light spongy cake, resembling Bath-buns.
Caramel. Burnt sugar, occasionally used as a make-shift for colouring.
Charlotte consists generally of very thin slices of bread, steeped in clarified butter, and placed in symmetrical order in a plain mould garnished with fruit or preserve.
Chartreuse of Vegetables. A mixed preparation, consisting of vegetables symmetrically and tastefully arranged in a plain mould, the interior of which is garnished with either game, quails, pigeons, larks, fillets, scollops, tendons, &c.
Chartreuse a la Parisienne, See. An ornamental entre'e or side-dish, composed chiefly of quenelle force-meat; the interior being garnished with ragouts, scollops, &c.
Compote generally means confectioned fruits, preserved in syrup, or apple and any other kind of fruit jelly; this word is also used to designate certain savoury dishes, prepared with pigeons, quails, or larks, mixed with peas, or mushrooms, &c.
Consomme. Clear strong broth, much used in the preparation of Soups, Sauces, &c.
Contise. When small scollops of truffies, red tongue, See., are inlaid, as ornaments by incision, in fillets of any kind, they are said to be contises.
Croquettes and Rissoles. A preparation of mince, with a bread-crumbed coating. These words both signify something crisp.
Croquantes. A bright mixture of fruit and boiled sugar, Croustades, Pates-chauds, Tourtes, Timbales, Casseroles of Rice. Various ornamental pie-cases, made either of paste or prepared rice.
Croutons. Sippets of bread of various sizes and shapes, fried in clarified butter, and used to garnish salmis, fricassees, dressed vegetables, &c.; they are alsa served with certain Soups, chiefly with purees.
Cold Entrees. These consist of fricassees, salmis, cutlets, ham, tongue, fillets of game, poultry, and fish, aspics, salads of poultry, fish, or shell-fish; Boars’-heads, potted meats, & c. They are appropriate for ball suppers, public breakfasts, and upon all occasions where a cold collation is served.
Entrees. A conventional term for Side-Dishes, comprising cutlets, fricassees, fricandeaux, fillets, scollops, salmis, boudins, sweetbreads, pate's-chauds, chartreuses, &c.
Entremets, or second-course side-dishes, consist of four distinct sorts, namely, cold entrees; dressed vegetables; scolloped shell-fish and dressed eggs; and lastly, of the infinitely varied class of sweets, consisting of puddings, gateaux, timbales, sweet croquettes, charlottes, croquantes, pastries, jellies, creams, fritters &c.
Espagnole and Veloute. The two main Sauces from which all others are made; the first is brown and the other white.
Fanchonettes and Florentines. Varieties of small pastry meringued over.
Farce. Is a coarse kind of forcemeat used for raised pies and gratins.
Flans, Darioles, and Mirlitons. Varieties of French cheese-cakes.
Fricandeau and Grenadins consist of the primest parts of veal, or fillets of poultry, &c., smoothly trimmed, larded, and brightly glazed with a concentratio 1 of their own liquor; they are served as side-dishes.
Fricassee consists of chickens cut iu pieces, and prepared in a white sauce, with truffles, mushrooms, cocks’-combs, &c., as accessories.
Gauffres. A light spungy sort of biscuit.
Glace. Anything iced. This word is also sometimes used figuratively, by French cooks, to signify a smooth glossy surface.
Gratins. A term applied to consolidated soups and sauces; also to certain dishes of high character, consisting of game, poultry, fish, vegetables, or macaroni, &c., improved by great care and finish, through the use of concentrated sauces or gravies.
Hors-d’ceuvres (Hot). A species of very light entree s, such as patties of all kinds, rissoles, croquettes, scolloped fish, shell-fish, macaroni, poultry, game, sweetbreads, brains, ox-piths, horlys of fish, poultry, or game, &c.
Hors-d’ceuvres (Cold). These should be eaten immediately after the soup and fish; they are considered as appetisers, or whets to the appetite, and consist of sardines, anchovies, tunny, Dutch herrings, savoury butters, oysters, oiled salads.
Jardiniere. A mixed preparation of vegetables, stewed down in their own sauce.
Luting. A paste made of flower and water, and used for fastening the lids on to fire-pans when preserving game, &c., in order to prevent evaporation.
Macedoine of vegetables is a jardiniere, with the addition of some kind of white sauce.
Macedoine of fruit. A kind of jelly.
Madeleine. Resembling queen-cake.
Matelotte, a dish of mixed fresh-water fish, sometimes of one kind onlv as Eels. * ’ ‘ Meringues. A kind of light trifle.
Migntonnette Pepper. A preparation from either white or black pepper-corns which, after being broken, chopped, or ground coarse, so as to resemb.c mM nionnette seed, should be sifted in order to remove the dust. “ Nougat. A mixture of almonds and sugar.
Nouilles. A kind of vermicelli.
Pa;;er, to bread crumb Panure. Cutlets, scollops, croquettes, or any other entree that is bread-crumbed.
Piping. A kind of decoration made of icing, used for ornamenting cakes, pastrystands, small pastry, &c.: it is thus effected: — Take a short funnel or conicallyshaped instrument of tin, and insert the same within a larger-sized and similarlyshaped paper funnel or cornet, the pointed end of which must be cut off so as to allow the tin instrument to protrude: place the icing or glazing (a mixture of finely-pounded sugar and white of egg worked into a smooth and firm paste) in the cornet or forcer, the upper part of which must be completely closed; the glazing is then forced out at the point by pressure of the thumb on the upper part of the cornet.
Pi.uche, or plushe, the leaves of parsley, chervil, tarragon, lettuce, or sorrel, snipped or cut small; these are used mixed or separately, according to directions.
Profitrolles. A light kind of pastry, creamed inside.
Puree. A kind of pulpy maceration of roasted meats, and of vegetables, or fruits, finished by being passed through a tammy or sieve.
Quenelle. A delicate sort of forcemeat, used in the preparation of entrees, &c.
Ragout. A rich compound, consisting of quenelles, mushrooms, truffles, fat livers, &c., mixed in a rich sauce, and used for garnishing highly-finished removes and entrees.
Releves or Removes. The top and bottom dishes (as they are designated in England), served to replace the soup and fish on ordinary tables. These usually consist of roast joints, turkeys, capons, highly or plain dressed fillets, or rolls.
& c., of beef, calves’-heads, &c.
Roux. A mixture of fresh butter and flour, which, after being baked, is used for thickening sauces.
Salmis. A highly-finished hash, made with game or wild-fowl, cut up and prepared in either a rich gravy or sauce.
Saute. Cutlets, scollops of game, poultry, or fish, &c., lightly fried in butter.
Souffles. The word souffle means strictly something puffed up, and is generally applied to a light kind of pudding, served as a remove to second-course roasts; it is made with any kind of farinaceous substance, and may be flavoured either with fruits, liqueurs, or essences.
Trifle. A second-course dish, composed of sponge-cake, macaroons, fruit-jams, custard, whipped cream, brandy, and other liqueurs.
Turbans and Mazarines. Ornamental entre'es, made of forcemeats, and fillets of either game, poultry, or fish.

Vol-ac-vent. A figurative expression applied to puff-paste of the lightest kiud.

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